Can you imagine if restaurants shared the same menus; preparing their entrees in precisely the same manner utilizing identical ingredients? Fortunately, chefs (like winemakers) seek for diversity in the creation of their products. Their finest offerings incorporate complex, well-integrated flavors and subtle nuances that aren’t easily defined but contribute greatly to the overall sensory experience. But with so many restaurants, how do we decide where to dine? Should we consult the Michelin Guide or Zagat Survey? When selecting a wine, should we seek the advice of the Wine Spectator, Anthony Dias Blue or perhaps Dan Berger?

With so many exceptional products available, we must first identify the style of food or wine we appreciate most. Clearly, we are not all looking for exotic preparations of foie gras, glazed sweetbreads and pork belly accompanied by a well-aged Romanee-Conti. Some of us prefer a good steak and a robust Napa Cabernet or perhaps a more simple preparation of grilled fish, with steamed vegetables and a crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

We all agree the guidance of critics can be helpful. But remember … critics (like consumers) have very different palates and don’t always agree about what constitutes greatness. Some of the most notable wine critics prefer flamboyant, ripe wines with very forward flavors, while others seek greater refinement, balance, eloquence and nuance in their top recommendations. Most importantly, don’t be swayed by a single review. Rather, look to a consensus of opinions or follow the advice of critics who share your stylistic preferences.

To illustrate how critics disagree, take a look at the recent reviews for our 2008 Alysian Pinot Noir from the Rochioli Vineyard River Block:

o 96 Points – Reviewed by Linda Murphy, March 2011
o 95 Points – Reviewed by Charles Olkin, Connoisseurs’ Guide, March 2011
o 93 Points – Reviewed by Ken’s Wine Guide, May 2011
o 91.5 Points – Average score of all consumers, Cellartracker.com, January 2012
o Best Pinot Noirs – Listed as a one of 2011’s best Pinot Noirs, Wine and Spirits Magazine, March 2012
o Best Pinot Noir – Chosen by Dan Berger in blind tasting of 60 top Pinots, Vintage Experiences, March 2011
o American Wine Awards – The only Pinot Noir chosen, Ray Isle, Food and Wine Magazine, October 2011
o Exceptional – Reviewed by PinotFile, November 2010
o Gold Medal – Reviewed by Affairs of the Vine for the 10th annual Pinot Noir Shootout, January 2012
o 86 Points – Reviewed by Wine Enthusiast Magazine, March 2012 issue

As a second example, examine the reviews of our 2008 Alysian Pinot Noir from Floodgate Vineyard West Block:

o 94 Points – Reviewed by Gregory Dal Piaz, Global Tasting Initiative, November 2011
o 92 Points – Reviewed by Linda Murphy, March 2011
o 91 Points – Reviewed by Anthony Dias Blue, The Tasting Panel Magazine, January/February 2012
o Exceptional – “The Whole Package”, reviewed by PinotFile, January 2012
o Gold Medal – Reviewed by Affairs of the Vine for the 10th annual Pinot Noir Shootout, January 2012
o 85 Points – Reviewed by Wine Enthusiast Magazine, March 2012 issue

As you can see, the Wine Enthusiast viewed both wines quite differently than other critics. Does this mean their reviews are incorrect? Of course not. Steve Heimoff (who conducts the tastings for Wine Enthusiast) is a very kind and capable critic who has my utmost respect. This simply illustrates the fact that some critics interpret our wines quite differently than others … which is perfectly fine and completely understandable.
Though the discrepancy in the scores noted above is severe (and therefore somewhat surprising), those who have followed my career understand I have never produced wine in a style intended to please the masses; or certain wine critics for that matter. Admittedly, our wines are controversial. Some suggest our wines are most appreciated by the more sophisticated palate; and this may be true, as our strongest advocates tend to be sommeliers, winemakers, wine educators and (selected) wine writers. Those seeking maximum concentration, volume and ripeness in wine will not favor our style. Rather we strive to produce wines of enhanced refinement; with a keen focus on structural integrity, purity of flavor, elegance, alluring nuance and refreshing acidity. Consequently, our wines are slower to develop, but have tremendous cellaring potential. Our 2008 Pinot Noirs, for example, are mere infants while many producer’s offerings from this vintage may be at (or beyond) their prime. Therefore, our wines require some deliberation to fully appreciate their youthful charms and to identify suggestions of how they will blossom with age.

So what can we conclude from this discussion? Above all, trust your palate and buy the wines you most enjoy drinking. If you have enjoyed the wines I have produced throughout my career, seek the advice of critics who have endorsed our products and winemaking style. These critics will likely lead you to our finest efforts and to other producers whose wines you may also enjoy.

Gary Farrell, partner and winemaker
Alysian Wines